MANGROVE MONITOR
Description:
The Mangrove Monitor Lizard belongs to the family Varanidae, the genus Varanus and the species Indicus.
The monitor lizard is the oldest living family of lizard dating back over 45 million years.
The Varanus Indicus or the Mangrove Monitor is only but one species of the forty-five species of monitors distributed throughout Southeast Asia, the South Pacific Islands, Australia, India and Africa.
Although monitors are distributed over about one-third of the earth’s entire land mass, two-thirds of all monitors live on the continent of Australia including the Mangrove Monitor. Australia is only but one of the many areas that the Mangrove Monitor inhabits.
The Mangrove Monitor is one of the most intelligent and attractive monitors of all of the monitor species.
The adult Mangrove Monitor can reach an ultimate length of 5 feet, but on the average they tend to grow to a length of 3 ˝ feet to 4 feet which seems to be the norm.
The lifespan of the Mangrove Monitor seems to be unclear in captivity, but in the wild the average lifespan is between 10 to 12 years. An educated guess of those for whom are in captivity would place their lifespan at 15 to 20 years given the proper care and maintenance.
The Mangrove Monitors body is slim and the body scales are small, oval and keeled. The tail is very powerful and triangular in shape, the South American tegus have a somewhat similar body shape and their tails are also very powerful, but the tail of a tegu is rounded. The Mangrove Monitors tail does not have a fracture point ( a specific point of the tail that is designed to breakaway as a means of defense) the tegu, iguana and water dragon among other species have fracture points in their tails. The head of the Mangrove Monitor is long and narrow with extremely sharp teeth that are serrated on the edges. Their tongues are forked not
Unlike a snakes tongue. The facial region is smooth with large scales. The inner lining of the mouth can appear red, this proves to serve two purposes: first, it draws in prey and second it assists in warning off potential predators. The red substance is actually blood mixed with saliva. The neck is very long exceeding the length of the head. They possess four very powerful limbs that they utilize for running down their prey, fleeing from potential predators or danger, climbing and swimming. They have five almost razor sharp claws used to rip apart prey, climb and defend themselves. Their background coloration is black with yellowish-white or yellowish-orange spots that cover their entire body.
The Mangrove Monitor in the wild can be characterized as a semi-aboreal, semi-aquatic monitor, they spend large amounts of time in the water, but they can also be found high up in trees on large branches that overhang the water. This routine does not seem to change during the course of their lives. Don’t be surprised if your monitor keeps its body submerged under the water in its water bowl for hours. Mangrove Monitors have a tendency to keep even their head submerged under water for up to an hour at a time.
In the wild, they are for the most part found around water. This observation is made on part of most Mangrove Monitors. There are some Mangrove Monitors that live in dry areas with no water anywhere near them, it all depends on what region that particular monitor inhabits.
Mangrove Monitors by nature are very alert, but extremely nervous and skittish. In the wild, if confronted Mangrove Monitors will flee for the water rather than aggress on an intruder. In captivity, they will feel threatened with no escape and will take an aggressive stand by extending their front limbs and puffing up their chest to make themselves appear larger than what they really are. They will also begin to pulsate their necks and expelling quick bursts of air ion the form of a hiss. If this proves to be not enough to warn you off, they will turn their body just enough as if they were going to slowly walk away and before you know what has hit you they will have whipped you with their tail with lightning speed and accuracy.
Some monitors will flee for their hide at this point, but some may further take advantage of the situation and finish you off by launching a full speed attack with mouth gapping and lunging their razor sharp serrated teeth into whatever unprotected fleshy space they happen to come across first. Always be alert and wear gloves at all times when dealing with any larger reptile, never become complacent or you will bare the scars to remember your mistakes.
Regular handling is the only way to tame and keep tame any monitor lizard. Mangrove Monitors are infamous for defecating on their handler! Always be aware that monitor lizards will also bite, claw or whip their tail in an attempt to escape your grasp.
Natural Habitat & Range:
The natural habitat of the Mangrove Monitor is mainly in damp river banks inside of coastal forests, but in some regions that they inhabit are in open areas nowhere near water.
Mangrove Monitors inhabit a wide range in the South Pacific region consisting of Northern Australia, New Guinea, the Solomon Islands, the Marshall Islands, the Caroline Islands, the Marianas Islands and Micronesia.
What to look for before making a purchase:
There are some important considerations that must be addressed before you purchase a Mangrove Monitor Lizard:
1) Have you research the various monitor lizard species to make sure that the Mangrove Monitor is the right monitor for you?
2) Purchase only a healthy looking captive bred specimen if at all possible and preferably from a breeder. The chances are very good that if you purchase a Mangrove Monitor from a pet shop that it is going to be a wild caught specimen that is full of parasites and crawling with ticks and mites. Wild caught specimens can be more trouble than what they are worth considering Vet bills and medication costs. Another disadvantage to wild caught specimens is the fact that they can spread parasites to healthy specimens.
3) Remember monitor lizards are difficult to breed in captivity, it is by no means impossible, but even if private breeders were to supply all of the dealers and pet store chains with captive bred specimens it still would not be enough to meet the demand. Wild caught monitors will always be part of the reptile pet industry until someone someday finds a full proof way to propagate them in captivity.
4) Research the federal, state and local laws and regulations, if any on the private ownership of large reptiles or reptiles in general.
5) Before you purchase any reptile make sure that you have purchased and have in place all of the necessities required of the specific species of reptile. For example, a hiding place, at least two water bowls ( one large and the other smaller), rocks for climbing or constructing a cave, branches for climbing.
6) The monitor should be active or at least alert to your presence.
7) The monitors eyes should be open, bright and clear.
8) The monitor should be flickering its tongue if moving around the enclosure. You will also want to make sure that the tongue is forked and not matted together. This is a good indicator of a respiratory infection or possibly pneumonia.
9) Look at the monitors mouth is there any sign of mucus?
10) Look at the monitors nostrils are they clear or are they appearing to be bubbling?
11) The vent (anal region) should be clear.
Captive Requirements:
Hatchlings can be housed in a 10 gallon aquarium. Juveniles can be housed in a 29 gallon aquarium. The thing to remember with larger reptiles is the fact that they will grow rapidly until they become an adult. Bigger is better when it comes to large reptiles. You might want to start even a hatchling off in a 29 gallon aquarium. Adult Mangrove Monitors will more than likely need a custom made enclosure built by either a reptile enclosure specialist or you may opt to save money and construct an enclosure yourself. I recommend that the dimensions for the enclosure be at least 8’ X 2’ X 3’. The construction materials must be heavy duty grade and framed with 2” X 4’s”.
Mangrove Monitors no matter if they are a hatchling or an adult they will need at least one hiding place. In general, I use flat slab rocks to create a cave for them to utilize as a hiding place.
I recommend using two water bowls inside of the enclosure, the first water bowl should be small and placed on the cool side of the enclosure; this water bowl will be utilized solely for drinking water that is if the monitor(s) cooperate. The second water bowl should be large enough for the monitor to fit its entire body into for soaking, a source of humidity for the enclosure and it will assist your monitor in having a problem free shedding.
Only fill the water bowls up approximately 2/3 full to help prevent spillage leading to possible mold deposits.
Mangrove Monitors by nature are semi-aboreal and at times need to climb, I recommend Adding at least one sturdy and secured branch in the enclosure for climbing.
There are a few different substrates that can be employed in the enclosure and they are:
1) Newspaper – Inexpensive, but Mangrove Monitors at times need to dig and burrow.
They will merely shred up the newspaper and create an unsightly mess.
2) Aspen shavings – Purchased in bulk, it can be relatively inexpensive, but it does
not hold moisture very well and tends to put off the urine odor.
3) Cypress mulch – I recommend this substrate because it holds moisture and is far
easier for the monitor to dig and burrow into.
I am not one for whom believes that UVB lighting is required, I use dome lights with various wattage light bulbs depending on the time of the year for a light and heating source.
During the Spring and Fall, I provide between 10 to 12 hours of light. During the Summer, I provide approximately 14 hours of light and in the winter months I cut the light back to 8 hours per day.
The day time temperature inside the enclosure should range between 85 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit on the cooler side of the enclosure. The warmer side of the enclosure should be kept at approximately 120 degrees Fahrenheit. The night time temperature within’ the enclosure should range between 80 degrees Fahrenheit and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, never allow the enclosure temperature drop between 75 degrees Fahrenheit, this can lead to respiratory infection in the monitor.
Under the tank type heat strips can also be utilized as an extra source of heat. If you do employ under the tank heat strips only cover 1/3 of the bottom of the enclosure to keep the thermo gradient in tact. The same rule applies to under the tank heat pads. Note: I recommend purchasing a heating pad for human use rather than a reptile heat pad, it is virtually the same thing and the one made for humans is far less expensive.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND NOR DO I ENDORSE THE USE OF HEAT ROCKS. Heat rocks have the potential of severely burning and possibly killing your reptile.
Feeding:
Mangrove Monitors will accept a wide variety of food items and I have always believed that each has its own personality and preferences when it comes to the food items that they prefer. Some food items that can be offered to Mangrove Monitors are:
1) Pinkies, fuzzies or adult mice, depending on the size of your monitor.
2) Goldfish.
3) Shrimp.
4) Crab meat.
5) Crayfish.
6) Canned moist dog or cat foods.
7) Dusted crickets and/or superworms, hatchlings and juveniles will readily accept either. Remember to always dust the crickets and superworms with mineral and calcium supplements.
